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RetirementFAQs
Explainer Updated 2026

Setting Your Annual Spending Baseline

Your real annual spending number is the foundation every other retirement decision sits on, and almost nobody actually knows theirs, because the obvious figure misses the lumpy costs that decide whether the plan holds.

Withdrawals

What’s the one number every retirement plan is built on, and that almost nobody actually knows? Your real annual spending. Get it wrong and every downstream decision, when you can retire, how much you can withdraw, whether the plan survives a bad market, is built on sand. So before the strategy, the number.

Start from what you actually spend, not what you think you spend

The honest way to find your baseline is to look backward, not guess forward. Pull 12 months of bank and credit card statements and total what actually left your accounts, then strip out the things that stop at retirement: payroll taxes, retirement contributions, commuting, the mortgage if it’ll be paid off. What’s left is your real cost of living, and it’s almost always different from the number people say off the top of their head.

Then add what retirement adds. Travel in the early, active years. Hobbies that fill the time work used to. Healthcare you used to get through an employer, which is a major new line before Medicare, see the healthcare bridge before Medicare. The point is a number you’d actually live on, not an optimistic one.

The mistake that breaks the number: smoothing the lumps

Most people build a tidy monthly budget and multiply by 12. The hidden problem is that retirement spending is lumpy, and the lumps are what blow up the plan. A car every several years. A roof. A daughter’s wedding. A trip to see the grandkids three times this year and zero next year. Average those into a flat monthly figure and you’ll understate the years they land and panic when they do.

I’d build the baseline in two layers instead:

  • Core spending, the recurring cost of running your life, the number that repeats every year.
  • Lumpy spending, the big irregular items, estimated as an annual average but held as a separate reserve so a $40,000 year doesn’t feel like the plan failing.

Keeping them apart is what lets you spend on the second layer without flinching, which is half the point of having the money.

The part most people miss

Most people pick one number and freeze it. The deeper truth is that retirement spending isn’t a flat line, it moves in phases. The “go-go” years in your 60s, when you’re healthy and traveling, tend to cost the most. The “slow-go” years pull back naturally as you do less. The “no-go” years late in life often see core spending drop while healthcare rises. Planning a single flat number across 30 years overstates the later decades and can scare you into underspending the very years you’re best able to enjoy. The baseline is a starting point you revisit, not a verdict you carve in stone.

If your accounts are large

When your portfolio comfortably clears your spending, the baseline stops being a survival question and becomes the input that unlocks confident spending, which is the harder problem for savers who got rich by never spending. A precise number tells you how much cushion you actually have, and that’s what lets a dynamic withdrawal approach, see guardrails vs. the 4% rule for $3M+, give you room to spend more in good years instead of dying with a fortune you denied yourself. Build the number from your real statements, split the core from the lumps, and revisit it. Money is just a tool to buy time, and you can’t buy any of it back if you never learned what your life actually costs. Pressure-test the figure with the spending confidence quiz.

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